Sunday, February 6, 2011

Focaccia: An unctuous treat

Over the holiday, my sisters and I headed to Portland for a special day of thrift store shopping.  Renee recommended a restaurant for us to go to for lunch.  Located in a warehouse district in Portland, we walked into a place that literally made me cry.  It was my dream.  A s mall, clean kitchen, a walk in sausage refrigerator, a wall of wines, and an amazingly simple menu.  The charcuterie had few tables, and a bar where you could sit and watch the food be prepared.  The name, "Olympic Provisions."  I loved every moment.  And then, my order came.  Roasted pork loin on focaccia with mayonnaise, caramelized onions, and escarole.  Every bite was unctuous and delicious.  I could feel the love on my tongue. 


Since that time, I have longed for this sandwich.  I can still recall the sensation of homemade mayonnaise dripping down my chin.  So this week, I decided to begin recreating that sandwich.  I began with the focaccia.

Now, if you are interested in learning to bake bread in a serious way, I have to recommend a cookbook.  This is my favorite cookbook of all times.  It is called, The Breadbaker's Apprentice.  This book is phenomenal! The stories in it, the explanations...they are incredibly clear and well written. If I had real guts, I would sell all I have and move to France and study bread baking, and it would be due to this book.  Baking happens in weight, at least, in this cookbook it does. I've come to really enjoy measuring by weight rather than volume.  One tool I would not want to live without is my scale.

The recipe I am writing up here comes from this cookbook.  It is not mine in any way.  I have made a few adaptations--one being that I halved the recipe.  Another is that I used olive oil, rosemary and coarse sea salt rather than the recommended herb oil.  I also explained the process in my own way.   I can't wait for this weekend to make the rest of this sandwich.  I'll write about how it turns out.

Rosemary Focaccia
2 1/2 cups (11.25 oz.) bread flour (I like King Arthur unbleached bread flour)
1 t. (.25 oz.) salt  (not kosher here, but rather fine grained salt)
1 t. instant yeast
3 T. (1.5 oz.) olive oil
1 cup (8 oz.) water, at room temperature
1/4 cup olive oil


Directions
Using the stand mixer, stir together the flour, salt, and yeast using the paddle attachment.  Add 3T. olive oil and water and stir until combined.  Change over to the dough hook.  Knead on medium low speed for 7 minutes or until you form a smooth, sticky dough that clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom.


Sprinkle a 6 inch square of flour on your counter.  Place your dough on the square.  Stretch it out to this size.  Lift each side and fold over in thirds, like an envelope.  Walk away for 5 minutes to let the gluten in the dough relax. 


Stretch the dough to be twice its size and fold over as before, in thirds.  Mist with spray oil, sprinkle with flour, cover with plastic wrap and let rest 30 minutes.  After 30 minutes, repeat.


Let the dough ferment for one hour on your counter.  It should swell.  If your counters are stone, and it is winter, and if your house is cold like mine, this may take up to 3 or more hours depending on the temperature.  You will see pockets of bubbles on the surface of the dough when it is ready for the next step.


Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.  Drizzle with 2 T. olive oil. Lift the dough and place it on the parchment paper.  Put 2 T. olive oil on top of the rectangular dough.  Use your fingers to stretch it out until it is about 1/2 inch thickness.  Heavily dimple the surface with your fingers.  Sprinkle on the remaining 2 T. olive oil, 1 t. crushed dried rosemary, and 1/2 t. coarse sea salt.  Cover with plastic, or place in a plastic bag and let rest in the refrigerator (or on your cold porch) for at least 8 hours to retard the dough (this makes for a much more complexly flavored dough). 


3 hours before baking (or 6 if your kitchen is cold), redimple your dough and add more oil if desired.  Proof at room temperature for 3 hours or until about 1 inch thick.  Preheat your oven to 500 degrees with the oven in the middle position.  When the oven gets to temperature, put your focaccia in, lowering the temperature to 450 degrees.  Bake for 10 minutes.  Turn the pan 180 degrees and continue to bake until browned, about 5 minutes.


Immediately transfer the dough to a cooling rack.  Allow to cool for 20 minutes before slicing or serving.


Enjoy!

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